Malhado

Mauled.

I lolled and rolled through the night on a row of seats that were available on the much emptier Doha to Maputo leg. Immigration went fairly smoothly because at least during the long visa wait, I was sure I would present failsafe paperwork when I eventually arrived at the desk.

I knew I would face issues with deactivated SIM cards and disconnected internet, and I resolved to sort them out before attempting to work. I set about learning the various Covid rules in Mozambique and it was clear that working from the apartment would be a necessity with restrictions on business opening hours and the office space I previously used long given up. A helpful chap at the airport called Juvencio popped up when the previous Movitel desk was no longer there, and I needed to troubleshoot the reactivation of my phone. We didn’t resolve it but it was a warm first interaction. I eventually headed to a Movitel store in the city and acquired a new SIM in the afternoon.

I also enjoyed a young hustler type at the airport (they often hang around flogging belts and power banks) trying to charm a policewoman by saying her mask added an air of mystery. He said she looked ‘espectacular’, to which her eyes showed me she was grinning bashfully (behind her mask), whilst trying to chastise him for being a cheeky chancer.

I went with the landlady Helena and she showed me that she’d kept the apartment in good condition, periodically taking clothes onto the balcony to air them. I started sorting through my things and apart from a few electronics and some discoloured clothes, I’ve got away with only a few losses.

I told my few Maputo friends that I was back and in the evening Lundula kindly invited me over for food. Here is his Rottweiler Kylie mauling me. The other blurs are also dogs of some description. Lundula also introduced me to Esther Perel, a fascinating psychotherapist who has spoken a lot about navigating relationships in modern society. Her TED talk is well worth listening to.

Majorly relieved to be back in Maputo.