In Kaleiki, one of the districts below Kars Kalesi. Photogenic, colourful, friendly (it seems), poor, unsanitary and largely illegal. There are Ottoman buildings, Russian buildings, new Turkish Republic buildings, barns, shacks and of course tucked in with all this a 10th c Georgian church. It's the most solid, though unused since 1918. The rest seems to be falling to pieces. The district climbs up the hill beneath and beside the castle, getting more agricultural at the top of the ridge (next to the Crimean War bastions) where there are sheep, geese and drying dung-heaps (for fuel).

My friend Celil says there are plans afoot to move everyone out of this district and Kalealti beside it and into the apartment blocks that are going up on the other edge of the city.