Two idiots

Today was most certainly what holidays were created for. On the morning ferry to Rùm we saw two porpoises, a diving gannet and countless Manx shearwaters bobbing on the surface. It was an invigorating ferry ride and much emptier than usual due to Covid restrictions on passenger numbers. We had been lucky to get a ticket.

Rùm gave us a perfect introduction and it’s obvious why the only (current - let’s not gloss over Rùm’s disturbing past) settlement of Kinloch had been chosen for its sheltered position and oasis-like feel. We checked in at the bunkhouse with a chap called Jed, who visited the island on a university geology field trip years ago, and never really left.

We explored the area around the main bay, surprising some red deer, and discovering delightful woods and brooks. We skirted Kinloch Castle, a very ostentatious building constructed by former owners of the island. Part of it has latterly been used as a hostel but is now abandoned and creepy. As we peered in, Michelle reckons she heard a mouse, but I don’t know what kind of mouse can reverberate through walls. Then we got onto the more important business of eating rough oatcakes and cheese on a picnic bench in front of the castle.

There is an otter hide a short walk from the village, so we went there in the afternoon. It wasn’t peak otter time so instead we sunbathed on a big slab of rock, which was blissful, warm and sleep-inducing. It was amusing to see a comment in the hide’s wildlife records book from 02 July stating ‘2 idiots on beach so no wildlife.’

An evening of general good spirits and planning of the next few days’ walks. Topped off with a bottle of cherry cola and some Irn-Bru chew bars back down at the otter hide. I wonder whether someone will note down ‘2 idiots chewing bars so no wildlife.’

I enjoyed this bloke preparing to get into his kayak early this morning in Mallaig, surrounded by harbour paraphernalia.