In search of phalaropes…..

Today we begin the final leg of our journey through Orkney and Shetland with a ferry from Toft to Ulsta, taking us to our next island, Yell. It’s a beautiful morning, and we love this new part of our adventure - though we only have few hours as we are moving on to Fetlar before our final destination Unst. 

The scenery is glorious, and at our first stop of Sandwick beach, we’re greeted with a white sand beach backed by dunes and edged with dark rocks that are the perfect contrast to the blue sea and sky. On closer inspection, we find the beach is not entirely white, but has substantial quantities of sand that is decidedly pink.

Onwards we go, past the reputedly haunted ruins of Wind House, the remote Whale Firth where German submarines are said to have hidden, and on to another glorious beach, the Wick of Breakon. Sunlight and dark clouds join together to intensify the colours of a landscape dotted equally with tidy homes and crumbling ruins. And as we drive along, I’m thrilled to spot a golden plover in the fields and get the chance to photograph it strutting about and vocalising. Another new bird for me. 

We don’t have time for everything, but will return in two days time. Meanwhile, we head for the ferry port at Gutcher, looking out into the sunlit cliffs of Unst our final destination. 

For now, we’re off to Fetlar - not part of our original plan, but the chance to spot elusive phalaropes is just too tempting. By now, the threatened mist is pouring in, adding to this little island’s mystery. We stop at yet another beach close to the eerie ruins of Brough Lodge. The rotten hull of a boat lies on the shingle, its rope still tied to the rusting boat winch. 

Next it’s on to the Wick of Testa, a fine sandy beach separated by a shingle back from the small loch behind - an area where it seems large quantities of skua nest. I do not investigate too closely! 

But the real draw is Funzie loch to find the phalaropes. I don’t think we’re surprised to find the water sadly lacking in much avian life, but there’s the hide overlooking the smaller ponds and marshes. Unfortunately however, a large group of twitchers has descended there before us, and we feel any chance of sightings is remote. 

I make no pretence of patience when it comes to wildlife watching, so when we eventually get the hide to ourselves, I quickly tire of looking out for signs of avian life. But still, it’s beautiful, the air rich with bird songs and cries, the land rich with grasses, reeds and flowers. Even this can’t keep me there for long however. The best sighting comes outside the hide; the very impressive nest of hooded crows holding the most adorable and placid chicks. 

Back at the loch, the level of activity has increased significantly. There are red throated divers swimming in the centre, and the shallows seem to have been designated bird ablution areas. Arctic terns, ringed plovers, a dunlin and some oyster catchers are all splashing about, ruffling feathers and generally enjoying themselves. Sadly, still no phalaropes however …….

By now it’s time to head back for our final ferry of the day, taking us to Unst where we will spend our last two nights on Shetland. 

As always, my choice of main is difficult, but eventually I decide on the golden plover - such a pretty bird. In extras there are collages of birds at Fonzie Loch, the hooded crow chicks, and scenes on Yell and Fetlar. 

Many thanks again for your generous response to my Noss gannets - so thrilled to make it to the top of the popular page for the first time! I’m afraid I’ve had no time to even look at journals today - not helped by internet problems! And technically this is a back-blip as I’m posting after midnight!