Eshaness

Today we head further north in our exploration of Shetland. Each day, we’ve focused on a specific area, and today it’s Northmavine, joined to the rest of Mainland by the isthmus, Mavis Grind - these names are so wonderful, evocative of times past, often tracing their origins to old Norse. 

Northmavine has the reputation of being the most spectacularly scenic area, and it doesn’t disappoint. Our first stop is at Hillswich where we walk across the fields to a white sand and shingle bay overlooking spectacular red-rock cliff outcrops. 

But this is only the prelude to what Eshaness has to offer, as we discover when we reach the spectacular coastal landscape formed by the remains of what was once a huge volcano. Here the coastline is deeply indented by long geos and small rocky coves, while stacks stand as proud reminders of long eroded headlands. We walk from one glorious lookout to another; the views are breathtaking, and today’s calmness of the turquoise sea adds an almost surreal element to the scene before us. 

Just inland from the cliffs are small lochs, one home to the Broch of Houlland, a stronghold built on a small island reached by a little causeway. Though collapsed, it’s ancient strength is still apparent.

We walk back towards the car through meadows of cotton grass and wild flowers. By now I find myself quite regularly kneeling down or lying in such places, taking closeups of these floral gems, and today this place is just so perfect, filled with the songs of skylarks and the warmth of the sun, that I just want to lie down, close my eyes and stay here for a while …… 

But no, it’s onwards to Stenness shingle beach, once a thriving fishing station. All that remains now are a few ruins of the houses that once lined the shores. This island has so many empty buildings, so many piles of stones, and so much beauty. 

Today’s main is, inevitably, Eshaness, and as extras, an Arctic tern - taken as it was swooping down on me, warning me away from its nesting site, and what we think is a whimbrel - though we’ve found it very difficult to distinguish the difference between it and a curlew! I’d be grateful for your views! 

Many thanks for the wonderful response to my gannet post from yesterday - I feel quite overwhelmed!