Afternoons on Calgary Bay

We had a great first day in our own special paradise. As ever, up betimes, and out of the cottage to do the walk that comes past our front door (more or less). We did the walk once before - the first time Mr A and I came to Mull. I think that was Easter 2007, but we’d have to check the photographs at home. That time, we parked on the road, and walked down through Treshnish, so this time we joined in part way around, and then of course carried on to finish the walk by coming back up the track from the ‘main road’. The highlight of the walk was visiting the abandoned village of Crackaig (the whisky cave has no particular attractions to us, plus it would have been a scramble to get there). Treshnish has written eloquently about it on her blog (and possibly also on blip). You can see why humans would have settled in Crackaig, in a sheltered spot at the top of a cliff. Different stories abound about why the village was abandoned, but it seems to be a story of population collapse rather than coercion. We met some other people whilst we were sitting have a snack in the middle of the village. Local residents, I think - or certainly people who spend a fair bit of time here. They pointed out the carved stone on one of the houses (see one of the extras), which is unfortunately weathering now so it is barely visible and really not legible.

Onwards from there, we recalled why we had trouble following the last bit of the walk on our last visit. An old school house near the main road was empty when the walk book I was using was written, and so we were incorrectly told to go close to the building to join a track. By then, the ruin had been rebuilt and re-occupied, a garden fence erected, and the path redirected. We encountered someone who told us somewhat vociferously to keep out, when we were looking for the path. No such alarms this time. Not only was it a great deal less boggy than on our last visit, but we also found the path really easily. I suspect that this walk has been completed a lot of times since our last visit! The other extra is a picture taken from a second abandoned village, a little higher on the hill, called Glac Gugairidh. 

After a cup of tea and a bit of a rest in the cottage, we drove to Dervaig to get ourselves some sun cream for tomorrow (yes, the sun has certainly come out!) and visited Calgary beach on our way back. While we certainly didn’t have the beach to ourselves, and there were loads of people enjoying themselves in different ways on the beach and in the sea, it was great to be back in another of our happy places.

Before dinner, we sat out with a beer, but at that time there were still clouds and a sneaky cool breeze. After dinner, the light and warmth just got better and better. All the clouds had cleared, and we sat out with another beer, this time with me lying on the grass. It was proper warm and practically insect free, which was another boon. Scotland in May. Nothing better when it works.