Myanmar, November 2015

Each night I watch the unfolding tragedy of Myanmar, the resolute dignity and courage of the protesters, and wonder whether any of these faces are amongst the dead.

I think back to November 2015; we’re in Myanmar,  justifying  our visit by arguing that democracy is on its way, though perhaps timing our visit during the election period is not our wisest decision.

We discuss the upcoming election with, Aye, our guide in Yangon. She is excited and refreshingly optimistic about what the results could bring to her country. Despite progress, the  government is still within the power of the military, and human rights abuses remain real issues. But Aye is a young woman who has dreams of a brighter future. Aung San Suu Kyi, leader of the National League for Democracy who has spent years in prison under house arrest, is described to us with genuine affection as ‘our mother’. Aye passionately hopes that Suu Kyi will be voted into power and that there will be great change - but she fears the military’s iron grip. Most of her family work for the government and will be expected to vote accordingly. Evidence of abuse of power and cronyism is everywhere. 

In Bagan, another guide answers our questions, sitting us down, away from prying eyes and ears. He lowers his voice to a level we can hardly hear, glancing around nervously as he speaks of his hatred of the regime which he feels has stripped the country of its cultural and economic wealth. He too is desperate for a new and better regime.

Two days later, news of the result is filtering through. Qui speaks with quiet pride of how the NLD has won most of the area’s seats. Only two villages have voted for the government - based on promises of electricity supplies for their communities. Strangely, there is no official news, but social media seems to be spreading a message from Suu Kyi herself; the NLD is victorious, but there should be calm. Any celebrations could inflame the situation, giving rise to intervention from the military. A nation holds its breath - and so do we.

Finally, while waiting for a flight, I pick up a newspaper. There is a small article and a photograph of Aung San Suu Kyi - three short paragraphs on an inside page to announce the NLD victory and the president’s instructions to his ministers to ‘prepare for a smooth transfer of power as desired by the public’. It seems the passionate dreams of the wonderful individuals we have encountered have come to fruition........

Five years and three months on, we watch in despair as those same dreams are torn apart by bullets and police batons, admiring beyond words the bravery of the protestors standing firm against the guns and tanks, and weeping that this fledgling democracy has been so short lived.