St Gobnait's Day
Just back from Baile Bhúirne, up country in the wilds of the Gaeltacht, for it is St Gobnait's Feast Day and they have a big celebration there. All weather known to woman was encountered en route - I left in hail and gales, passed through quite thick snow, slush and even brilliant sunshine.
This is a remarkable day - big crowds come to pay the rounds over an extensive site which has 11 stations or stopping off points, and two wells. It is an atmosphere of utter devotion yet very jolly too, everyone stops to smile and say hello and by everyone I mean small children to, families, to teenagers to the elderly. The well is the final station where you drink the water which is exceptionally cold and fresh.
On then to the church where a statue of the saint is displayed only on this day. It dates from the 13C, is made from oak and very worn. The tradition is to buy some Gobnait measures - lengths of ribbon cut to the exact length of the statue, then you wait your turn to visit the statue, tie the ribbons around it then lengthwise and then you bring them home to ensure good health for the rest of the year. I watched a few people pay their respects - the ribbons gently being wound over the statue, then it is caressed or kissed. The devotion is utter.
I then repaired to the local cafe for a warming bowl of soup and pondered over the whole experience. It feels ancient and timeless, utterly genuine and real, and somehow very important which confuses me totally.
Extras
Touching the bulla - an agate stone hidden in the walls, said to have healing qualities
Touching the sile na gig - she's just above the window
The statue
The measures
More experiences - arthouse and chips now - tonight's film Le Brio, French, I'm still recovering from last week's. Catch up tomorrow.
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