Triglia, gamberi e calamari alla Livornese

Our peripatetic fish man is just that. He clocks up 60,000 km a year moving around small Tuscan towns from his base in Pisa. He goes where other fish-sellers don’t go, avoids hassle and turf wars and he works all the time.

He is great at expounding local recipes for the fish and shellfish he sells. He acts out the preparation delicately pouring olive oil, squeezing a lemon adding parsley but no parmigiano. Everything being done just so.

He said the red snapper were best cooked whole in a tomato sauce - alla Livornese - from Tuscany’s port and second city. And so we did.with our own heretical additions.