Surreal Danakil Depression

We both have our bags now - phew- I needed my walking shoes for our expedition into the Danakil Depression. Lying more than 100m below sea level, this is the most continuous hottest place on earth (temperatures can exceed 50c) and about the most inhospitable. It is so surreal it doesn’t feel like part of Earth at all. We left with our guide, a local guide and an armed guard at 4am to try to beat the worst of the heat. The drive from Mekele took about 4 hours. There were several army road blocks on the way which passed quite amicably. We drove over two lots of mountain ranges, negotiating rock falls though the roads were mostly good. We stopped for ‘breakfast’ of a package of dry cakes and bread plus a boiled egg and coffee at 7 am at a few huts where other 4x4s had stopped, at the beginning of the hot desert. Around then we passed the famous camel caravans going to the dry cracked bed of Lake Asale where the Afar people cut salt blocks from the ground. We also drove by 2 camel carcasses.

About 9.15 we reached the start of the walk up then down into the amazing coloured area of Dallol, 125m below sea level). We had lots of water and sunscreen. Great warts of twisted sulphur and iron oxide paint a yellow and orange coral-reef looking landscape. The base is the lowest in Ethiopia. In the distance the steam from the sulphurous gases was blowing but thankfully not in our direction - though we got the whiff it was nowhere near as bad as on White Island in New Zealand where we wore gas masks.

We were led through the very unstable ground - some of the crust was very thin - to look at stunning green pools amongst the yellow and red ground which was in weird shapes. The area is so volatile new geysers erupt every few days. It was a dry heat, but extreme, so we walked slowly. We walked for about an hour around the surreal landscape then headed back to the jeeps. We were only out 2 hours but we were glad to get back into the vehicles.

We drove a bit further to see an incredibly hot pool of water erupting and bubbling before driving back. We stopped for a few photos of the salt cutters. How they can work in those temperatures I don’t know. The camels were all resting. On the drive back we ate our veggie burger lunch

We got to the hotel at 4ish and ordered cold beers before having our cold shower. (The hotel doesn’t do hot showers anyway so cold was ok under the circumstances!).

It was the most amazing day. An experience not to be missed though fitness is essential as the terrain and the heat make it quite an arduous outing. After only 2 hours out and wearing sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat, my face feels burnt. We are all tired - but we don’t need to leave till 8.30am to fly back to Addis.