Yebo

Yebo is a general statement of affirmation that is heard a lot in Swaziland and Zulu-speaking parts of South Africa. In Mozambique it’s a long weekend timed with a need to exit the country for a 30-day visa stamp, so what better way to spend it than by visiting Swaziland, which is now more appropriately known as Eswatini after its name change in 2018. Eswatini is how it is more commonly referred to in the Swazi language.

I am road-tripping with Maputo friends Tassiana and Joao. We left Mozambique in the morning via the upland area to the west of Maputo, towards a landscape I am familiar with as I first came to Eswatini in 2004 and subsequently spent a lot of time here between 2007 and 2009. I haven’t been back in almost ten years so I’ve been seriously looking forward to this trip.

Immediately over the border, the friendliness and relaxed nature of Swazis was obvious. I was sentimentally lapping up the landscape to recognise familiar landmarks and note changes as Joao navigated Eswatini’s approximately one million speed bumps. Traffic heavier in parts but more goats, cows and donkeys on the road in others. A military checkpoint still going strong but the foot and mouth control barrier, at which I used to conceal sausages in the boot, has relaxed a little and didn’t wave us down. The rolling and rocky bush with its red earth still contrasting strongly with the heavily manicured sugar plantations and bland towns that service the workers and their families. One of these in particular, Simunye, is close to where I used to base volunteer groups for conservation and community projects. I have spent countless hours at the Simunye Plaza (far too grand a title), searching for obscure construction materials, vainly hoping that South African supermarket chains would suddenly have started stocking vegetarian foods, and shipping volunteers to the clinic for all manner of ailments.

We arrived in the Ezulwini Valley, which is towards the west of Swaziland where the land rises in the foothills of the Drakensberg Mountains. This region is Hhohho, which I challenge anyone to pronounce. The landscape is not devoid of human impact but is rugged and beautiful and holds lots of great memories including of hiking, wildlife watching, barbecuing and camping. Usually with a group of fifteen eighteen-year olds in tow, but memorable nevertheless.

The weather was a little damp and threatening so we were content to poke around the Ezulwini area, visiting the much expanded nearby shopping arcade. Whilst we should have been enjoying the scenery, we got over-excited and loaded up in the pharmacy upon realising that toiletries are much cheaper than in Mozambique.

It’s a blessing not having the same shop checks as operate in Mozambique. There you have to wrangle with security to keep your bag with you, and if you don’t succeed it has to be deposited at a specific desk. Later when you have paid and the security guard has been standing one metre away watching items being scanned and payment accepted by the cashier, before being permitted to leave, the security guard must re-check the contents of your bag against your receipt. It’s painful and I’ll never again underestimate the luxury of walking in and out of shops unchallenged. The system exists due to the perceived or real threat of shoplifting. It’s quite a sad mark on a society that has progressed enough to have supermarkets but that doesn’t allow the patrons to keep their bags with them as they browse the aisles.

Ezulwini Valley still has much forest cover. The image is of the tranquil view from the terrace of the lodge where we’re staying, where we relaxed with a delicious hot chocolate when the air cooled.