Pulpo

Or octopus, in English. Here in Spain, it is often referred to as the sea-equivalent of the much-prized, free-range, acron-fed Iberian pig which provides the famous 'jamon bellota' to the Spanish table.

This sea-beast is first guttted and then boiled three times for different periods in a large copper pot. What you see is the result . . . pure, all-meat limbs covered in fine skin. It really is delicious, on a par with lobster, and usually served on a bed of sliced boiled potatoes with olive oil and chilli powder that is usually sweet, sometimes spiced but never smoked.

Pulpo a la Gallega is the centre piece of many religious feast days in the north-east of Spain and the dish has also spread in popularity to every corner of the country, including Catalonia.

I remember once ordering 'Pulpo a la Gallega for six' for a party of British people of the same number, all of whom turned their noses up at it. I ate the lot and remember walking out of the 'pulperia' supported on what seemed like six extra legs!