Graceful

He's goin' down, his board is just an orange shadow to the right, yet he does it so gracefully.  I would think the natural urge is to open your mouth in a yell (or scream), but he has to hold on to his camera!

Sandy Beach was pumping today with the southerly swell running along the shoreline.  The beach shape allows the waves to curl and then come running up the shallow shore.   I saw 2 people sitting a little further back than me get inundated by a long runup, coming within a few feet of where the rock wall holds the line of parking.   This was after I'd watched a lifeguard go running down the beach to warn a mother dangling her young child in the base of the runup to stay out of the water and move back up behind the warning flags or go to a beach safe for swimming.

My extras:
1.  The waves were capricious - and magnificent!
2.   Big wave behind him in another ride by the same camera-in-his-mouth fellow.  His swimfin makes it look like he's riding some form of watercraft.  That is the solid water of a wave behind him just starting to shred at the top.


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