La bella vita

This is more like it. Lorenzo enjoys a well-earned gelato -- and from the gelateria voted the best in Italy, in a little village in Abruzzo. This was his nice surprise for us after our walk. And it was the first day when we didn't get wet at all.

We were all so knackered after the last few days that today's walk was shorter than planned. We got to experience the lovely walk through sunny flower-strewn meadows that we missed out on yesterday: there are over 2,000 species of flower in this national park. Then we descended a steep and muddy path into a gorge. Even my magic shoes failed me here -- I landed on my bum twice before I realised the treads were clogged with slimy mud and cleaned them out with my stick.

Today's hermitage was tucked halfway up the cliff on the other side of the gorge. Andrew dashed ahead and lit candles and incense so it was atmospheric when we arrived. We should have returned the same way, but Andrew and Lorenzo offered to run back, fetch the vans, and drive them round to an agriturismo on this side of the gorge. So once they'd directed us up some rather treacherous steps, we sat on a rocky outcrop with a gorgeous view, eating Marisa's excellent packed lunch and watching them whiz up the steep path until they disappeared from view over the crest.

We had a leisurely 2 km stroll up to the meeting point, and amazingly just as we emerged onto the track the two vans appeared from the opposite direction: we couldn't have planned it better if we'd tried. Then it was gelato and home early enough to spend an hour or so lounging in the garden enjoying the sunshine.

Marisa and her assistant Patrizia had once again surpassed themselves, spending the afternoon making home-made ravioli filled with ricotta and basil and served in fresh tomato sauce. They were so good we all had at least two generous helpings -- we just couldn't stop eating them. Meanwhile Marisa's husband, strong and silent Cary Grant lookalike Camillo, was busy at the barbecue. Just as we were feeling we couldn't eat any more he appeared with big terracotta pots of Abruzzese speciality arrosticini -- small skewers of diced grilled hogget (one-year-old lamb) simply seasoned with salt and olive oil. Somehow we managed to stuff ourselves with these too: they were delicious. With them we had a salad of lettuce, rose petals, calendula, and borage, all picked from the garden, and courgette and aubergine fritters: all the food here is home-produced. And cake to follow. I think this was my favourite meal of the week.