Bones

A long trip out to the 'West Side' - the huge, uninhabited western two-thirds of Andros. A giant national park and home to allegedly some of the biggest bonefish in the world, as well as all sorts of other wildlife.

We didn't see any giants today, but nine feisty fish came to the boat before lunch, after which every bonefish in the Andros disappeared for a siesta.

The West Side is surreal - utter silence (bar the buzzing of the fierce horseflies and the slashing and splashing of needlefish and barracuda), endless 'fields' of water, at most a couple of feet deep, describing every shade of blue, turquoise and yellow, separated by winding channels and 'hedges' of mangroves. And then finally the open sea - looking like an endless turquoise lake stretching off towards Cuba.

The only sign of human activity - a random aircraft sat in the middle of the swamp - a reminder of the Bahamas days as a staging post for drug trafficking,