Musings on France

Today I was permitted to eat (for free) in the school canteen for the first time. I had roast chicken with little pasta shells and some shredded carrots in dressing. School meals are much more restaurant-esque here - or at least, they are in my school. We sit at tables of four and are served in our seats by the dinner ladies, and we have side-plates with fresh bread. Fancy.

This leads me to think about the ways in which France excels, and also the ways in which it lags behind. For example, the food culture is just incredible - even children have opinions on wine and cheese, the supermarkets are heaving with countless varieties of fruits and vegetables that I have never heard of ("Queen Victoria" pineapples, anyone?) and meals are always protracted social affairs. Of course there are ready meals and takeaways, but there are also the little boulangeries and patisseries. In Britain, we only managed the first part.

What's more, the lifestyle is undeniably better for most people. Two-hour lunch breaks, a strong emphasis on family time, café culture everyhwere and an appreciation of the finer things. It seems like every street corner boasts a little café with a few tables and chairs. Alcohol and coffee aren't guzzled but savoured. In this regard, the stereotype of France is certainly not a million miles from the truth.

And yet, fundamentally, there is a lot wrong here. The attitude that "French is best" is pervasive. Generally, it's true - in food, culture, lifestyle and architecture, France has over time reached an impressive pinnacle which has set the bar very high. However, the cultural conservatism which has grown up to defend "the French way" has created a system which hinders change and diversity. True, the supermarkets are bursting with choice, but all your choices are French - a whole aisle just for sauces, but not a hint of Asian or Arab food to be seen.

In conversation over the lunch table, some children with Algerian origins told me they felt "more Arab than French," despite having only briefly visited their ancestral lands. Immigrants are far more visible here in day-to-day life - the dinner ladies are Muslims, the playground assistants, the bus drivers - and yet watching French television you would think that the country is entirely Caucasian. Everyone in the media is either a distinguished old white man or an incredibly voluptuous white lady; the music scene is better, but even here minorities only seem to play set roles, e.g. black rappers.

The concept of Frenchness is so rigid, so steeped in tradition, that it's no wonder. And this resistance to grow and change seems to force newcomers and "outcasts" to the cultural margins. There is a lot wrong with Britain, but France would do well to learn from our porous national identity. Yes, there is afternoon tea, the Proms and Hogmanay, but there is also tikka masala, garage music and the Asian Network - all British institutions borne of foreign influences, but somehow no less British (at least not to me).

Don't get me wrong - I love France, and French culture is a joy which they are rightly proud of. However, I hate conservatism, be it political or cultural, and France is conservatism, so I could never live here permanently. In that respect, I suppose it is quite like the UK after all!