Dizzy Heights
More fairly sensible choices today as I sent Rich on his way from the coast to the summit. I took a taxi along the road we did on Monday to just below San Bartolomé and our timing for meeting up couldn't have been better.
Rich looked on good form so we had a couple of bananas and filled up his water bottles and headed on up. I'd saved 3000 feet of ascent taking the taxi but we still had around 5000 to do.
I think today's route up was the hardest 15.7 miles I've ever done (although for Rich, the hardest 28!) The gradient, particularly after Ayacata was quite a sustained slog, unlike yesterday's delightful zigzags. But it was still amazing!
We had a strange experience in Ayacata where the place we chose for lunch clearly didn't like cyclists and other random people. He told us we had to wait. And proceeded to serve a couple that came in after us. And deliver their drinks. And he still ignored us! There was a couple there who were getting ignored trying to pay, as well as a group of four who left without being served. So we followed suit and left him to it. We kind of understood his sentiment but... Just have a sign!
Trouble was, there was nowhere else open in the village so we headed on up until, thankfully, we heard music from above as we approached the walk to Roque Nublo. A little snack van kept us going for the next five miles or so to Pico de las Nieves - the top!
The huge rock formations were seriously dramatic up high but what was also a real delight was entering the smells of the pine forest and hearing woodpeckers (spotting one in the way down!)
Of course, I was pleased too to see the cloud inversion on the north side of the island and the views over to Teide on Tenerife. You can't complain about a pure blue sky but you know how I love being above the clouds!
By this time, I was in food deficit as baguettes was all that was available at the little van (nothing worse than cycling with a bread baby) so I'd just eaten cheese and my fourth banana. The cafe that we stopped at on the way down, just beyond Ayacata, couldn't have been more welcoming and friendly. We may well be turning into a Spanish tortilla but boy, it's good cycling food!
The 28 mile descent is probably the best I've ever done. Tremendous views, mostly superb tarmac and, well, downhill!
So, 45 miles was still a substantial day with plenty of ascent but my hip feels acceptable still and it's not hurting going up steps (the big test). But, the true hero today was Rich for:
a. Cycling his biggest single continuous climb
But also (selfishly speaking),
b. Lacing into my back muscles with his bony elbows near the mirador at San Bartolomé after they knotted up (I think with the cold descent (should have added my arm warmers sooner!)) and eliminated the stubborn headache and nausea that came on at the cafe. It made for a delightful descent!
Another... What.A.Day!
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