Bukhara

It was so cold in the night that I Wore thermals and a merino top.

After breakfast of crepes and jam we went out for a wander to look at some of the places we rushed round yesterday, and went to Asia Hotel for more sum as the money change place was only giving 500 sum notes - (about 50p) so people could not close their wallets!

Awful tat in bazaar, made in China I suspect.

We had coffee and apple strudel in a German cafe of all places - what a treat to get proper coffee - then continued on our wanderings. Much of the old centre has been pulled down, and is being renovated in a sympathetic style but it will be very hot in summer when it is 50 degrees, as there's reflecting paving and no trees for shade.

We then met Andrew in a square which was being renovated with new paving, and he told us about a nearby mosque which had a brilliant wooden ceiling, but you could only see it from at door as there was such a huge ceiling crack it was dangerous to go in. He also had the name and info from the guide the day before which would allow us into any other place, so we saw an exhibition of old calligraphy in another mosque madrasah which was getting a bit of renovation done.

Anna and Chloe came to our room with their tooth mugs for a couple of vodkas before we went out. Anna is still weak and unwell and found the 20 mins walk to the restaurant they'd been to on first night hard. She had green tea and a skewer of chicken. Chloe and I had an oily but tasty aubergine salad with toms, cucumbers and coriander, and a skewer of veg - rather uncooked little aubergine, big tomato, pale green pepper and a potato wedge, with chips. Mr C had 2 skewers of chicken and "sale wort" soup which was spicy with veg and small bits of meat. And a beer.

We are all getting tired and going to bed early. This trip is really full-on but so interesting.