Acacias to Acacias, Dust to Dust
Nairobi is in the grip of drought, it having rained about once in the last few months. It makes the dynamic powerhouse that it is feel even drier and uglier. The strip development out from Nairobi on the Mombasa Road feels apocalyptic in the grey suspended dust. Cement factories spring up, diggers quarry under their looming hulks, and squatters build shacks on grey, barren patches of dirt. Development in Kenya is piecemeal. Fast food and middle class eateries abound yet supermarket shelves can be bare. Stocks run low of basic commodities yet there's nowhere you can't pay by credit card. Nairobi is evolving fast yet regions of Kenya, including West Pokot on the Uganda border, are the poorest people I've ever met.
We were amazed at the resilience of wild zebra and impala moving around amongst these scenes. There was even a baffling camel, which are not native. On the ranch of a project partner, where we stayed, there's an impressive number of giraffe and other wildlife clinging on despite the lack of greenery. Strange as it is to see wildlife against a backdrop of a cement plant with a loud hum, this is a great place to spend the night, listening to tales of South Sudan from someone with 40+ years of involvement.
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