At work with the Osbornes, Leigh-on-Sea

Graham Osborne, who I got talking to after blipping the catch being landed some weeks ago, invited me to watch the cockles being cooked. The Osbornes are THE cockling family in Leigh. Graham's ancestors began catching and selling shellfish here in the 1880s.

That's Andrew in the picture, looking shattered after a 12-hour shift which had started at 9pm the previous day.

You can just about see the cockles going up a conveyor at the other end of the shed. There's a terrific din as they are taken on a journey round the room via vibrating trays, vats of bubbling water and hissing steamers before emerging into the tray in front of Andrew.

Then they're boxed up for the Osbornes cafe on Billet Wharf or taken by lorry to sell at Billingsgate Market.