The emperor's abode

Both of us had the same thought today about how much easier it was this time to stand listening and looking in cool air than hot humidity. Even so, we can only take in so many temple shaped buildings. 

Six or so later in the Forbidden City, and we suddenly felt a breath of fresh air with beautiful 500 year old cypress trees gracing a floor of tiny, smooth pebble mosaics. When the Forbidden City was in use, people walked in the garden barefoot and the mosaics acted as a foot massage for reflexology. That was maybe my favourite story.  There've been some great anecdotes including how the royals, since the revolution in '57, still live today but now as 'commoners like us'. I couldn't help wonder if they'd kept a stash of money somewhere!

On the way in, you walk alongside the moat (not created for defence, as there was plenty of that further out, but as feng shui; water in front, mountain behind. They even created the mountain.  Older men with dilapidated bikes & motorcycles wearing quite plain clothes were illegally fishing in the water (this guy was a little more upmarket). Not for food either. You would have no clue, but these men are rich. It's a hobby. It sounded like they were way above the rules.

The Forbidden City is remarkable. Ornate gold and blue and red paintings, gold roofs and huge brass statues with vast stone courtyards between each building. We liked the brass lions which we can now tell the male and female of (it wasn't that obvious!) and have since spotted more on the walk home. Stories of the emperor and his concubines were quite impressive - beautiful women selected from across China and trained for two years in music, food, (etc?!) to serve him, taking an exam at the end. No wonder men in royal families killed for the emperor's job! Some women would have done anything to be employed but many, we heard, cut their faces to prevent being chosen to live in such a restrictive way and confined space.

We were dropped off after our tour at a Beijing duck restaurant that was recommended to us by our guide. No English spoken, no western people but we'd be able to point at photos to order. Fingers crossed...

It was extraordinary! 

We had crispy duck pancakes to start with. Without doubt the best example of its kind ever to touch my palate. Slightly different to the way it's served in the UK... Succulent, not overly cooked meat with thick, crispy skin. A whole plate of condiments to have in the pancakes - the usual, plus seaweed sprinkles, garlic, some kind of red jelly batons, sugar (for the sweet-toothed southerners (being northerners, that stayed put!)) and an unidentifiable red sprinkle. 

Then, a sharing platter. Not all to our taste but our guide had said to give different things a try. So we did! Seaweed noodles, very probably croaker fish compote, pak choi laced with horseradish, pickled garlic, tiny marinated courgette-type slices (looked a bit like garden slugs but I didn't say that aloud! (Rich ate all but one of those - maybe I'll tell him one day!)), and a duck/jelly terrine with a texture that suited neither of us. 

It was immaculately presented too, starting off with fresh strawberry appetisers on dry ice. Stir fried rice and duck balls (no, if you ask that question) in sauce with fresh pineapple... No tins here!

Just delicious. And exceptionally good value.

We've then walked home in the beautiful hazy sunshine that's been with us all day and sat in the hotel courtyard enjoying the sun. I've coped much better being on my feet today but now have my feet up whilst Rich has gone for a wander, trying to beat the jet lag.