What became of Madame Flambaum?
A rather tangential Father's Friday.
During the 1920s and 30s when he was a still youngish man my father's chief passion was walking or bicycling in the countryside, often camping out and cooking in the open air. I have many tiny faded photos of him squatting by a small fire wielding a frying pan, with a bottle close at hand. He frequently travelled in France too (with his first wife and later with his second, my mother) but there the gastronomic opportunities were such that they usually ate in restaurants, small rustic ones in le campagne, larger ones in towns and cities. Recently I came upon a collection of receipts and menus from his expeditions, pocketed in the way one does in the hope of holding on to the memory of an enjoyable occasion.
The Restaurant de la Rotunde in Orleans and the Chuche in St Malo sport witty graphics involving chefs and their stock-in-trade but the Flambaum in Montmartre relies on a star of David alone and its menu includes Slavic dishes such as borscht, bitki and kasha. Pursuing this in the usual way I discovered that the Flambaum was in fact a famous Polish-Jewish kosher restaurant patronised by a slew of cultural icons as well as my Russian father.
Something else stirred in my mind and I dug a bit further. The internet threw up no post-war references to the Flambaum. My father had dined there in 1929. 11 years later, in 1940, the collaborationist Vichy government enacted anti-Jewish legislation to deprive all Jews of their French citizenship and to begin the process of rounding them up and deporting them to concentration camps in France or Germany (estimated total number from 75 to 90 thousand men women and children perished as a result.)
Chillingly, a newspaper article from 1941 revealed that criminals were using the laws to blackmail and coerce Jewish business owners by threatening to seize their assets and have themselves deported unless they paid protection money. Several instances are recorded including this one.
"In Paris, two bandits posing as police detectives authorized to check Jewish enterprises, appeared in the famous Flambaum Kosher restaurant and ordered the owner, Mrs. Flambaum, into her office. There they locked her up, cut the telephone line, and robbed her of 160,000 francs in cash and jewelry." (I wonder what was her ultimate fate?)
It's all the more chilling because right now we now have an American president drawing up anti-immigration laws that will render a huge swathe of the populace vulnerable to persecution and exploitation both by the state and by malefactors.
This leaves a very bad taste in my mouth.
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