Sile na gig ...
... you exhibitionist
Back from an excellent few days in North Cork – you guessed it well hunting. 12 wells, an incredible castle, lots of ruined churches, the odd stone circle and a Pugin church bagged. We went with our fellow explorers Robert and Finola, were blessed with fantastic weather, stayed in an 18C house complete with deer and boars and were generally astonished at the delights North Cork had to offer.
One of the highlights was a visit to Blackwater Castle where we were treated to a three hour tour by the owner. What a privilege. We went primarily to inspect the well but I had no idea there was so much else to admire. The castle is perched on cliffs above the Awbeg river and has been occupied since Mesolithic times and no wonder, what a situation. The castle is a remarkably well preserved tower house with Medieval extension that were snazzied up in the Regency period. It is now available to hire – for family parties, stag dos, weddings etc – infact our very own Rainie was gallivanting there in the summer!
The well, dedicated to St Patrick, was right down by the river, covered in clematis and laurel but the water bubbled out clear and cold. The family use the water and have it piped to the castle. My very favourite thing though has to be the sile – once situated by the well then moved up to the castle and now awaiting reinstalling in one of the walls, where she must surely have originated. Sile na gigs are grotesque and sexually explicit carvings of females – often appearing in churches and on castle, but they may go back way beyond. No one is really sure what they are or how they were used but they are pretty fearsome and potent. The hag, the goddess, a good luck charm, a birth aid, a warning against the sins of the flesh – who knows. They were often included in pilgrimages when they were rubbed for good luck. This one is a beauty – unusual in that she seems to be sporting an elaborate headdress or hairstyle. They are found all over Ireland and England and there are a few knocking around in Wales and Scotland too.
It all seemed a million miles from the shenanigans across the pond. I wish I was a closer to a Women's March today - nearest in Dublin and Galway.
Back blips:
River Blackwater
Spot the well
Sheela na gig with a spot of PJ Harvey
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