What a difference a day makes! First I checked out of my hotel and took a rickshaw to catch the bus to Molela. Was greatly heartened to see the same laid back driver with his huge smile when he climbed aboard dead on 9.30. We crept slowly out of the city of Udaipur picking up passengers along the route. Bags of onions, coriander, cauliflower and green chillies were put on top of my case at the start but all sorts including red chillies were added as we travelled. Suddenly we veered to the wrong side of the road and a bundle of marigold garlands were pushed through the driver’s window. The ticket collector gently undid the pile and placed one reverently over the picture of Krishna and another over the driver’s guru which were up above his driving seat. Then another garland was placed around the goddess on the dashboard. Suddenly we stopped again with the driver putting his hand to his forehead and bowing left to a shrine – the ticket collector jumped off and threw a garland onto the platform and then we sped off. And I don’t just mean going faster – with all the help from the gods we simply flew – passing buses, cars, motorbikes and taking corners with such verve it was astonishing.
More and more people got on, luggage was put on the roof – then we stopped by a tea house and everyone decamped to take chai leaving scarves or something on their seat so they could claim it again. The lovely lady sitting beside was made to move back up the bus when a blind lady got on – something very wrong with her as she sat growling beside me in the most unhappy way. Two and a quarter hours later I got off in Molela where the terracotta tiles are made (shown last week) and found my host Jamnalal waiting to take my holdall.
After a chai with his wife I was route marched up the hill to a famous temple to which people from all over the west of India come to worship on festivals and every Sunday. Magnificent views over the village but misty – there are twelve separate areas for the different castes and occupations. Then back for dal, rice and chapattis and more chai. After that we went to the local prefecture to register that I was staying. Ha! not allowed – that took a while so we returned and made a plan that I should stay at the local large town in Nathdwara and return daily to ‘play with clay’. Then I watched Prasaant (21 year old son) taking clay, making a base plaque and then forming a Ganesh, Elephant God, on it. It is hollow and the clay contains 20% donkey dung that has been dried, powdered and sieved so only the fibrous bits remain. Then it was my turn with his studious attention to my detail – he took ¾ of an hour to do his, I took 2 hours! Afterwards more chai and then Jamnalal and I took a rickshaw along the 15k bumpy road to Nathdwara – there are no springs in a rickshaw and I forgot to go to the loo before I left so my legs were fiercely crossed! The first hotel refused to have me as a lone female – the three men at reception kept looking at me to see how I behaved while J. talked with them so now I am in a Government hotel – way up on a hill, quiet and beautiful. Photos tomorrow as it is dark now. I have a double room being charged as a single – the two mattresses are now on top of one another so there are two sheets (they only provide one per bed and a quilt usually and those look as if they were washed in the lake some time ago). I am using wifi at the hotel reception - they were worried I was in their office but bless them - here I am. My entry for MonoMonday frog's eye view - for I worked on the ground this afternoon.
Some of my day here
Thanks so much for comments stars and hearts - I don't have enough wifi time to responds but bless you for looking too.
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