Veredo do Ribeiro Frio

Today we shared a taxi ("minibus" the 5-year-old corrects me!) to a trout farm, from where we walked a short levada in woodland, leading to a fabulous mountainous vista from, I think, about 2000 feet.

Lunch at a lido restaurant near our son's hotel, watching waves career into rocks, with sun glinting on the sea. Early evening, six of us shared a box at the theatre to hear the Madeiran Classical Orchestra play a light mix of Suppé, Verdi, Mozart and more, conducted by Madeiran-born Luis Andrade and with guest soloist Raquel Camarinha.

The nightlife in the central streets of Funchal carries on till around midnight among the festive lights. Very few police around, who chat to their friends. The crowd consists largely of families - even with young children - both local and tourists. Everyone is enjoying themselves, no bad behaviour or thuggery, everyone happy and full of bonhomie without apparent drunkenness. OK, the balloon seller, dressed as Father Christmas, is dragging on a cigarette, but still ... here, there's no "dead time" between Christmas and New Year; the partying continues.

Back in our Hotel Madeira (just for this week) we can still hear the loud music and watch the throng, but it's not intrusive; the sound-proofing is excellent. Tomorrow we shall return to our self-catering apart-hotel, a little further out of town.