Valleta today.
If you're visiting Malta it's well worth 15 euros for the "Malta Experience", a history of the island from its earliest historical finds, to the present day, plus a guided tour of the premises of the Knights Hospitallers of St John, who started out running hospitals but diversified into military warfare.
(My theory is that the Maltese are getting their own back, wittingly or unwittingly, for the years of foreign hordes taking over their island by force by inviting them in and running all-inclusive hotels to increase the rate of obesity and type 2 diabetes.)
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