The morning after the night before
We arrived back at the stones just before 1:30am. Having had no dark nights on Orkney it didn't really come as much surprise that the night was still too light on Lewis as well. It's just the wrong time of year for night shots. We tried though and looking through the long exposures on the computer you can see some faint spots when you zoom in but not clear enough to show.
I had taken my iPad with me so I tucked into a few chapters of my book while waiting for the sun to pop it's head over the horizon and start a brand new day. That was a couple of hours away. It has to be said it was worth the wait as the sky lightened setting off the silhouettes of the stones beautifully. When the sun finally coaxed itself above the horizon the orange glow that caught the faces of the stones was just wonderful. We shared this sight only with the photographer who we'd met as we left. I was a bit surprised there weren't more maddies around. Even the midges had given up the fight. Oh, and by the way, Skin So Soft works. They still annoy the buggery out of you but the wee bams don't bite... and your skin is left so soft!
Returning to the guest house, We settled down for a couple of hours sleep before breakfast. After a hearty Highland Breakfast I didn't much feel like going back to bed so I picked up the camera to go for a wander and left Gitama to head back to the land of nod. The sun had brought with it another beautiful morning. A few fluffy white clouds dotted the blue sky and hung as reflections in the water but the breeze that had helped keep the heat away for the past few days was missing and it wasn't long before I could feel it prickling my skin. I also began to feel the effects of the lack of sleep so about an hour later I quietly opened the door to the room... to find Gitama downloading her images. Heh, so much for a sleep. I reckon she just wanted a head start on her blip!
I eventually closed my eyes and was wakened by the alarm I had set for 1pm. Refreshed, it was time to head out and about for a wee look at some of the other sights the west coast of Lewis had to offer. It was to be a changeable day weather wise as the bright start didn't last. This is reflected in my extras.
First stop was the Dun Carloway Broch. Built around the first century AD and is believed to have survived largely until 1601 when a group of cattle rustlers took refuge in the tower only to be smoked out by the chasing posse and the Broch destroyed. The top of the remains form the most lovely gentle curve. Set on a prominent hilltop overlooking the area, the Iron Age tower is a commanding presence still, among the surrounding crofts and houses. As we approached the car park at the bottom of the hill, the earlier sun drenched sky had been replaced by a threatening vista of dark clouds and waves of falling rain. We climbed the hill to the sound of rolling thunder rumbling across the valley and the sky darkened further as we left the site, the first few drops of refreshing rain falling as we got back to the car.
The heavens opened as we drove onto our second stop, the Blackhouse village at Gearrannan. We partook of a little afternoon tea (actually hot chocolate and scones) as we waited for the deluge to stop. It was a damper and greyer day we returned to a short while later but the rain didn't bother us again through the day. We wandered through the village. It was amazing to think of the small community bustling here not so very long ago. First crofters farming the land before being supplemented by weaving as it became part of the local industry. Electricity was only introduced in 1952 while it was the 1960's before running water was installed in the village that remained inhabited up until the 1970's. The senses were overloaded by the smell and sight of the peat fire burning in one of the reconstructed houses. One of the houses is documented as having had a major renovation during its time, with the traditional thatched roof being replaced with rubberised felt sheeting and a window added to the gable end. As the younger generations moved away, looking at bigger and better opportunities on the mainland, these villages began to die out and a way of life was largely lost as the older generations passed.
We decided to head for Stornaway for dinner and after a nice meal it was time to head back. I guess I was gabbing too much because I missed the turn off and unbeknownst to us both we started down the road to Tarbert. It was only when we started climbing the winding hill road at Aird a' Mhulaidh that I realised we weren't going in the right direction. To be fair, we'd been distracted a lot by the changing landscape of Harris. So much so, in fact we didn't acknowledge that this was actually the first time we'd passed this way. Fortuitous was a word being banded around in the car because the landscapes in the low misty grey clouds was just astonishing. So different from the days beginning. I'm so glad Gitama has had the opportunity to see Scotland shine brightly in the sun but I'm more pleased that she got to see her other face. That beauty reflected only in the grey, dreich days that form a major part of our year and makes this rugged land truly unique.
Gitama's take on the day can be seen here.
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