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Day 16

Ullapool to Sligachan

Easier drive but, God in heaven - the rain. It's relentless.
You see the occasional patch of blue sky in the distance but by the time you get there it's gone. From Brigadoon to Iain M Banks's manufactured hells - where torment is broken by periods of respite intended only to make the torment that bit more agonising when it returns - you can see how Scottish art has been informed by the bloody awful weather. Apparently the rain stops for a couple of months every year to allow for midge breeding season.

Then we found Seamus' bar at Sligachan and everything was alright again. Good beer, 400 whiskys and decent staff who reject the 'have a nice day' ethos.