Reendesert

Today we have been out and about with our pals Robert and Finola, our quest - fortified houses. There are only four in West Cork, all pretty obscure and ignored which is outrageous as they are fine buildings and historically important, now all crumbling. They tend to date from the mid 17C and are built in an Irish Jacobean style - all stout walls, gun loops, huge fire places and big windows. First stop Cul an Long near Durrus where the genial J showed us around - not only the old house but his slightly newer house next door which he is renovating, a colossal task. The old house is now home to ravens, sparrow hawks and a pair of noisy choughs nesting high up in the posh herringbone pattern chimneys.

Fuelled with a mighty French onion soup at Manning's Emporium we ventured on to Reendesert, near Ballylickey (first taking in a couple of old mills at Donemark). We knocked on the door of the house next to this amazing ruin and were told to go ahead and explore. The woman didn't know who owned the stately heap but it was the same person who had built the now derelict ghost estate next door - a dozen houses, almost completed, and now abandoned and being swiftly consumed by nature. We were accompanied on our explorations by a well behaved little terrier. Startling to think that this huge house has just been left, unloved and unsupported. There would be interpretation and ice creams if it were the UK. I liked the washing from the house next door, looking slightly saggy.

Home via a rhodedendron and azalea gardens ablaze with colour and some final refreshment at the Heron Gallery. A day well spent.