Crested Zen

Surfing for some is more than a sport, more than a past time and more than a lifestyle. It is a ritual and it is a religion. And on the shores of Southern California, the devoted offer praise to the surf lord every chance they get. And, today was a high holiday in terms of sun and surf.

The ocean was wild this morning as it typically is after a high pressure cell rolls through or a new moon approaches. And, in the case of this morning, it was both and the surf was gnarly with 5 to 8 foot breaks and non-stop action. The first surfer showed up about 5:30 am, just as the sun was peaking its head over the Santa Monica Mountains. By 6 am, there were a dozen and, by 7, there were three times that amount. As I looked across the horizon, the line of surfers to my right and left reminded me of a string of black pearls which extended from the pier in Santa Monica to the pier in Venice Beach.

Whenever I get the chance, I delay my arrival to work for an hour or two so that I may enter their house of worship. Today was one of those days. And, the ritual is the same every morning. They arrive with their wet suits on and their boards under arm. There are no cell phones or blackberrys or any other form of attachment except the cord on their boards. As they walk towards the water's edge, their eyes shift repeatedly between the sand at their feet and the break in the waves ahead. Then, they stand and study the rhythm of the water, searching for the point of the best breaks. They may arrive alone or in pairs but little conversation takes place. This is not a place for words. One does not talk in a place of worship. After a few minutes, the zippers are pulled up on their suits, the fall cords are attached to an ankle, and they walk towards the water. A few minutes later, they have the elegant movement of a classic dancer and the timing of a choir conductor. To me, surfing is one of those rare Zen-like sports. Man and nature acting in complete harmony. It is a divine concept as there are no two waves that have ever been the same. But that matters not to the devoted. They are there giving praise every chance they get. And on a day like today, they showed up as though it was a Sunday. This is a religion which never gets old or outdated.



I am floored by the views, comments and hearts I received on yesterday's blip. I was in a pissy mood last night and was overly tired. Nothing seemed right, including that image. The last few months have taken a toll on me but your kindness set me back on the right path. I am home with my family and am going to rejoin them....we have been apart to long.

Again, thank you........you are all amazing.