Whaligoe Steps

I first heard about this amazing set of steps when watching a BBC documentary about Edwyn Collins' rehabilitation from a double brain haemorrhage. We happened to be in the area, so paid a visit.

The 365 odd steps were built to access the sea where herring boats offloaded creels of fish in the early 19th century. The steps are made of the local Caithness flags and trace an impossible line down the cliff face to the North Sea.

Afterwards we traced our own impossible route along the north coast in the most mental weather. The sea in Loch Eriboll was a sight to behold, and the roar of the river crashing into Smoo cave was deafening. The frustrated indolence of the walkers sheltering in the Cocoa Mountain cafe in Balnakiel Craft Centre was tangible so when we eventually reached Achiltibuie and our luxury hotel after 200+ miles, we were relieved.

At dinner, we were presented with the best food and wine, whilst watching the storm batter across the Summer Isles through the window.