Warsaw's old city

Day four, we arrive in Warsaw, and on exiting the station we are greeted by flashy new high-rises and an imposing Soviet cultural centre - a gift from Stalin. We head towards the old city, stopping to look at grand churches, folk dancers and market stalls. Finally, we are greeted by this view, and find a cafe in the old market square for lunch.

Back to the station for 3:55, and we board sleeper number two. This one is more shabby: no shower, dirtier loos, no air con. In fact, unexplained hot air pumps out of a panel in the ceiling. But at least we can lean out of the windows this time. And the beds are, surprisingly, more comfortable. However, the border is much more of an ordeal. We are held (inside the train) for three hours in a huge warehouse, with army officers and men with hefty metal machines wandering around. At first we think it's an extensive search. But then we notice that at various points, the train beside us seems to be higher than us, then lower. We finally realise that we have been lifted up into the air to remove all of the wheels and fit new ones suited to Ukraine's tracks.