Wallacia

It was an anxious nerve wracking flight for me to Ambon. I don't know what?s gotten into me but I am developing an aversion to flying lately. I guest I just can't help thinking about it. And once you start thinking about speeding away across the sky on clumsy metal contraptions and all the variables involved it seems kind of crazy. Right? Oh and all of Indonesia's airlines have a history of crashes, sometimes many times...

Of course it was no biggie and the hour and a half flight on Garuda Air to Ambon went swimmingly smooth. I watched a beautiful film about the undersea world and met a warm and friendly Japanese man visiting friends in the seat beside me. We zipped over the sea and arrived in Ambon without a hitch. I've crossed into Wallacia, named after Wallace's many discoveries here, namely that East of this imaginary line (a deep water trench) the plants and animals diverge from Asia and take on the hue of Australia, like this cockatoo.

Along for the ride on this adventure is Kevin, a fun idealistic young Canadian traveler who spontaneously decided to come to the Banda Islands with me from Makassar. I'm happy for his company and fun adventurous outlook. Walking off the small island runway we are greeted by a sign that reads "Ambon Muluku...Gateway to the Spice Islands and Marine Paradise of Life!" Soon after we met Michael in the airport, a friendly smartly dressed local who helps travelers with various services. In our case, we need a way to get to the Banda Islands, a mythically remote and difficult trip. There is only one small flight a week that goes to the Bandas, if it even runs. It's our lucky day though and their is an extra flight the day after tomorrow to make up for the flight that never ran last week. Michael thinks he can get us a ticket, oh and he'd be happy to rent us a room at his family's house closer to the airport for the early morning flight. We said yes.

Surrounded by potted tropical plants, well swept and clean, Michael's house is a fine place to pass a night or two on Ambon. On the walls hang portraits of Jesus with psalms underneath in Bahasa Indonesian. Though Indonesia is a predominantly muslim state I have read about many Christian enclaves in Muluku and Papua converted from animism to Christianity. Even though I am a world away the place feels familiar and comfortable to me, like my grandmothers parlor.

At dusk Kevin and I explored and found a little warung down the street. We sipped on big bowls of bako soup with the locals by the roadside and watched soccer. On both of these points I must say something.

First, know that bakso is like the national dish and street food of Indonesia. It's basically a rich noodle soup with meatballs. Bakso can be bought for dirt cheap on any corner and is delicious. Depending on your temperament people douse on savory black sauces or spicy red chili sauces and mix it all up. When President Obama visited Jakarta at the beginning of his presidency he brought the crowd to a standing applause after saying that his fondest childhood memories of living in Jakarta were of 'eating rambutan and bakso soup.' Many Indonesians still remember this and smile.

On soccer, well I just have to say that I had no idea. Soccer is huge over here! Turns out because people tend to be smaller in Asia compared to European and African players they have their own leagues over here though. Who knew there were so many futbol fanatics in Indonesia?